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Home > SkinMedica Scientific Principles and Ingredient Highlights

SkinMedica Scientific Principles and Ingredient Highlights

Algae Extract

From plants that grow in seawater and fresh water.  An active substance used to normalize the skin's moisture content and provide suppleness and firmness to the epidermis. There are many varieties of algae, and they exhibit different properties, including softening, mineralizing, and providing vitamins and antioxidants to the skin.

Allantoin

An active, soothing, healing agent derived from comfrey.  Stimulates cellular activity, as well as promotes cell regeneration.  It works against the signs of aging that are caused by poorly functioning cell metabolism.

Aloe Vera Gel

Highly emollient and slightly astringent.  The gel from aloe contains a wide variety of minerals, vitamins, amino acids, and humectant sacchrides, including lecithin, zinc, selenium, potassium, and manganese.  Its moisture-regulation ability is its most widely recognized haracteristic.  Other properties include an apparent ability to absorb UV light.  It has a soothing effect on sensitive, burned, and sun-exposed skin.

Ascorbic Acid

Corrects and protects against future damage by promoting cell renewal, increasing collagen production, and providing antioxidant defense.

Ascorbyl Palmitate

The antioxidant fraction of vitamin C; a free radical scavenger (fights aging symptoms in the skin) that enhances collagen production for firmer skin.

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

A stable, lipid, soluble form of ascorbic acid; a free radical scavenger (fights aging symptoms in the skin) that enhances collagen production for firmer skin and reduces hyperpigmentation and age spots.

Bisabolol

An active soothing agent in chamomile.  Calms inflammations, bruises, and burns.  A softening factor for rough and irritated skin.

Camellia Oleifera (Green Tea) Extract

Suppresses inflammation and irritation while also being a powerful antioxidant that protects the cells from free radical damage initiated by environmental factors such as exposure to UV light.

Calendula Extract

Contains carotenoids, a form of carotene.  A botanical that has healing, soothing, antiseptic, and anti-inflammatory properties.

Camellia Oleifera (Green Tea) Extract

Suppresses inflammation and irritation while also being a powerful antioxidant that protects the cells from free radical damage initiated by environmental factors such as exposure to UV light.

Castor Oil

From the castor bean, used in most lipsticks.  A hard, shiny oil that acts as a barrier agent to protect against climate while soothing the skin.

Ceramide 3

Ceramides are a key ingredient of the stratum corneum barrier lipids, along with cholesterol and essential fatty acids.  They influence the water-holding capacity of the skin and also  provide structural integrity via the formation of molecular scaffolding called the lamellar bilayer.

Chamomile Extract

Has clinically proven anti-inflammatory, hypoallergenic, and repair properties; neutralizes skin irritants.

Cucumber Extract

Credited with moisture binding, moisture regulating, soothing, tightening, anti-itching, and anti-inflammatory properties.  Contains amino acids and organic acids that are claimed to strengthen the skin's acid mantle.

Essential Oils of Rose, Lavender, Rosemary, Lavandin, Cedarwood, and Ylang Ylang

A volatile oily substance produced by many plants, essential oils contain vitamins, hormones, antibiotics, and/or antiseptics and provide natural fragrance.

Ginkgo Biloba Extract

An astringent and sedative used to combat the effects of aging; also appears to aid fibroblast cells in the production of collagen and elastin.  A powerful free radical scavenger, providing protection against a multitude of environmental pollutants.

Human Fibroblast Conditioned Media, aka NouriCel-MD, contains:

Transforming Growth Factor (TGF-B):  Responsible for collagen secretion; increased collagen fills in the depression or wrinkle and restores the support structure of the skin.

Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor (VEGF) and Hepatocyte Growth Factor (HGF):  Responsible for new blood vessel formation.  New blood cells deliver nutrients to the tissue that improve growth conditions for fibroblasts, keratinocytes,a dn collagen secretion.

Karatinocyte Growth Factor (KGF):  Responsible for epithelial cell growth resulting in the renewal of the epidermal layer of the skin.

Interleukins (IL-3 and IL-6):  Responsible for reduced inflammation, which leads to more rapid healing.

Kojic Acid

A mushroom derivative used as a skin-lightening agent; widely used in Japan.  Studies are finding it to be a tyrosinase inhibitor.

Kukui Nut Oil

Used by early Hawaiians to soothe cuts and burns and help protect the skin from damage due to sun and surf.  An excellent treatment in the relief of chapped, irritated skin.  Also beneficial for other skin disorders; does not leave skin with a greasy after-feel; has soothing and moisturizing properties.

Lactic Acid

Also known as alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA).  A multipurpose ingredient used as an exfoliant and moisturizer that creates a mild chemical exfoliation to reduce wrinkles and improve skin texture.  It is also a component of the natural moisturizing factor, a chemical structure in the skin that helps retain moisture and keeps surface cells soft and pliable.

Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Citric Acid, and Malic Acid

Also known as alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA), derived from bilberry extract, sugar cane extract, sugar maple extract, and orange and lemon extracts.  These multipurpose ingredients create a mild chemical exfoliation to help reduce wrinkles and improve skin texture.  Lactic acid is a component of the natural moisturizing factor, a chemical structure in the skin that helps retain moisture and keeps surface cells soft and pliable.

Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Citric Acid, Malic Acid, and Tartaric Acid

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA), a multipurpose ingredient used as a exfoliant and moisturizer; creates a mild chemical exfoliation to reduce wrinkles and improve skin texture.  A component of the natural moisturizing factor, a chemical structure in the skin that helps retain moisture and keeps surface cells soft and pliable.

Lecithin

A mild emollient, antioxidant, and emulsifier.  Stabilizes creams and lotions.  Generally found in soybeans.  Restores softness and improves texture in skin.

Licorice Root Extract

Considered an anti-irritant.  Studies conclude that licorice extract has a depigmenting effect as well as an inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis due to its ability to act as a tyrosinase inhibitor.

Macadamia Nut Oil

A carrier and emollient with excellent spreadability and penetration.  Leaves a smooth, nongreasy after-feel and is very gentle to the skin.  Its fatty acid composition is similar in structure to components of the major fatty acids of skin sebum, including some of the acids that are crucial to the maintenance of the skin's water barrier functions.

Menthol

Naturally occurring oil derived from mint leaves, used for its cooling, anti-irritant, and anti-itching properties, and to stimulate blood circulation.

Natural Mineral Wax

Paraffin (petroleum wax), ceresin, and ozokerite (fossil or earth wax).

Oat Extract

Significantly reduces damage associated with both UVA/UVB irradiation and chemically induced irritation.

Ocinoxate (Octyl Menthoxycinnamate)

Excellent UV absorption capability; helps prevent sun damage to the skin.  It is insoluble in water, making it ideal for waterproof products.

Octisalate (Octyl Salicylate)

An FDA-approved sunscreen ingredient; ideal for use in UVB sunscreens because it absorbs UV rays.

Octinoxate

Excellent UV absorption capability; helps prevent sun damage to the skin.  It is insoluble in water, making it ideal for waterproof products.

Pansy Extract

Its botanical properties include soothing, healing, and cleansing.  Recommended for use in dry skin preparations and for skin problems of various types.  The active constituents of this extract include saponins, salicylic compounds, tannins, and flavonoids.

Panthenol

Pro-Vitamin B5; a deep penetrating moisturizer that binds moisture into surface skin layers.  Soothing and anti-inflammatory, helps correct sun damage and repair tissue.  Stimulates cellular proliferation and promotes normal keratinization.

Phytantriol

One of the building blocks of vitamin E; substantive to the skin.  Enhances the deposition of ingredients (amino acids, etc) and provides moisture to the skin.

Retinol (Vitamin A)

Vital for the formation of healthy skin cells; regulates epidermal cell growth and development that is required for normal reproduction of basal cells.  Topical application helps smooth dry, thick, rough skin and improves elasticity by preventing connective tissue atrophy.  Studies also indicate that retinol can increase collagen synthesis and epidermal thickness as well as treat dermatological disorders such as acne, follicular and lesion papules, actinic keratosis, oily skin, and rosacea.

Retinyl Acetate

An ester of vitamin A having a very specific activity proven to restore cell integrity lost to ultraviolet and environmental exposure.  Very effective in restoring sun-damaged skin by rebuilding poorly producing cells, resulting in adequate keratinization of the epithelial tissue as well s the renewal of collagen synthesis.

Retinyl Palmitate

An antioxidant from retinol (Vitamin A) credited with increasing epidermal thickness and skin elasticity and stimulating the production of more epidermal protein.  Cosmetically, retinyl palmitate is used to reduce the number of fine-line wrinkles and prevent skin roughness resulting from UV exposure.

Rose Hip Oils

Has been credited with antiseptic, disinfectant, tonic, and soothing properties.  A lipid high in gamma-linolenic acid, considered vitamin F; enhances hydration and moisture retention.

Salicylic Acid

Beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that has keratolytic activity when used in proper concentration; helps dissolve the top layers of corneum cells and remove impurities, improving the look and feel of the skin.  It also reduces sebaceous follicle blockage.  This characteristic, together with its antimicrobial action, makes salicylic acid an excellent ingredient in acne products.

Shea Butter

A natural fatty acid glyceride obtained from the nuts of the karite tree.  Shea butter has a softening and nourishing effect on the skin; alleviates superficial irritations and promotes healing.

Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid)

An essential component of the skin that helps the long fiber proteins of collagen and elastin to glide as they work.  Extremely hygroscopic, it appears to bind water in the interstitial spaces between skin cells, thus providing protection from external invaders.

Squalane

Occurs naturally in human sebum, which increases skin respiration and prevents water loss.  A high-grade lubricant from olive oil, wheat germ oil, and shark liver oil, with excellent mechanical moisturizing properties.

Sunflower Seed Oil

Valued for its rich content of essential fatty acids, the lipids that are found in the skin's intercellular fluid and are essential for skin health.  Provides round-the-clock protection against dryness and aging and is noncomedogenic.

Tea Tree Oil

Considered a natural preservatives with antiseptic and germicidal properties.  Its antimicrobial activity toward a wide array of bateria promotes healing.  It is becoming recognized as a topical remedy for skin disorders and infections.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

A stable, lipid soluble form of ascorbic acid; a free radical scavenger (fights aging symptoms in the skin) that enhances collagen production for firmer skin and reduces hyperpigmentation and age spots.

Tocopherol

Oil-soluble vitamin E; one of the most active free radical scavengers known.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Stabilized Vitamin E; considered the most important antioxidant and free radical scavenger (fights aging symptoms in the skin).  Moisturizes the skin from within, improves smoothness, and blocks lipid peroxidation, which can cause cell membrane damage.

Tocopheryl Linoleate

A vitamin E derivative that helps to keep the skin moist and supple by enhancing essential fatty acids, which prevent moisture loss.  Vitamin E has been shown to significantly reduce transepidermal water loss, the process by which skin becomes dry.

Tocotrienol

A component of vitamin E found in vegetable oils.  Appears to show enhanced antioxidant activity, promotes tissue growth, and speeds healing.  Because of the unsaturated side chain, it disperses quickly into the membrane lipids and is often formulated with vitamin C to protect against sun damage.

Urea

A natural exfoliating complex believed to renew cells, increase absorption of other active ingredients, and increase production of hyaluronic acid and collagen within the skin.  An acid-free refinisher that delivers long-term benefits of AHAs and retinoids without the risk of irritation.

Willow Bark Extract

A rich, natural source of salicylic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA).  Described as a mild antiseptic and skin-clearing agent.

Witch Hazel

Traditionally used in topical treatments of burns, sunburns, and skin irritations.  It is credited with anti-inflammatory and wound-healing abilities.  Provides mild astringent properties to help redue the visible signs of enlarged pores.

Zinc Oxide

Organic mineral sunscreen; a traditional remedy for blemished and irritated skin.  When used in sunscreens, it creates a physical barrier that coats the surface and blocks UV rays from penetrating.